Hatshepsut was a fascinating character and one of the few females to rule ancient Egypt as pharaoh. She initially came to power by acting as regent for her infant stepson but when he came of age instead of passing rule to him she made herself pharaoh. Her reign was long and successful and she was a prolific builder. Her mortuary temple at Deir el-Bahri near the Valley of the Kings on the West Bank of the Nile at Luxor is a stunning monument to her power.

The mortuary temple is in one of the most amazing locations imaginable at the head of a valley nestled in amongst the peaks. This beautifully symmetrical geometric temple structure is a tribute to the architectural style and skill of the ancient Egyptians. The avenue leading up to entrance would originally have been lined with trees and sphinxes and there would have been entrance pylons to mark it which are now sadly gone. The structure itself is on several levels with ramps up to the terraces and rows of beautifully decorated pillars. The first level was originally a courtyard garden and the square pillars at the back concealed a series of reliefs which are mostly gone although you can see obelisks being transported down the Nile in one of the remaining illustrations.

There were three levels in all with many statues and sphinxes of the queen. The ornate pillars were painted and there are still a number of reliefs visible on the walls behind them. There were chapels dedicated to Hathor and Anubis and a sanctuary to Amun which was later rebuilt and dedicated to the great architect Imhotep. Some of the reliefs tell the story of the birth of Hatshepsut and her expedition to Punt which was a great success. She established many trade links and increased the wealth of the kingdom throughout her reign.

Today the site is a busy tourist attraction and the avenue leading up the entrance is lined not with trees but with Egyptians selling their wares. When we visited the temple was undergoing some restoration work and many of the sphinxes and statues which were removed or stolen over the years were being replaced with replica versions. You can actually see some of the originals in the Museum at Cairo.

The fact the temple seems to have grown from the rock itself makes it a dramatic sight indeed and as you come round the cliffs it presents a welcome surprise tucked away at the head of the valley. There are donkey tours available which allow you to approach in more adventurous fashion over the cliffs themselves. If you truly want to feel like an adventurer then this is a great way to discover the site.

It is incredibly hot and dry at Deir el-Bahri and this is an exposed site with little cover so it is recommended you take plenty of water and wear a hat. You can easily spend an hour or two here and the view from the top of the temple is splendid.